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I own a 2017 Cayenne GTS. I live in Mass so it’s often cold outside. A few times this winter when just starting out I’m getting a ‘Chassis System Failure” message. The screen shows a red shock absorber and it says to park the car safely. I’ve been fortunate enough that shutting off the vehicle, opening the door, and restarting has alleviated the issue. The vehicle is out of warranty so I took it to my independent garage. He scanned the codes and said he got multiple sensor failures. He said it impossible without spending many labor hours to chase down the actual issue. So $500 later nothing has changed. Wondering if other owners have experienced this fault and know of potential fixes.
 

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Hi welcome to the forum.

A number of people have had this sort of issue - it's typically either the front air-springs (leaking O ring at the top) or the valve body. So your independent had the balls to charge you $500 to not fix the car? I'd be looking for a competent independent. Hopefully, there is one in your area. If you're of a mind of DIY - you first need to narrow down the issue which will require you purchasing a Porsche-specific code reading tool ($200-2,000) that can tell you what the car thinks is the issue. Once you get those codes - post them here and some people may have some ideas/experience. I know a few members over on Planet-9.com do have experience with this. (Planet-9 is the sister forum to this one.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi welcome to the forum.

A number of people have had this sort of issue - it's typically either the front air-springs (leaking O ring at the top) or the valve body. So your independent had the balls to charge you $500 to not fix the car? I'd be looking for a competent independent. Hopefully, there is one in your area. If you're of a mind of DIY - you first need to narrow down the issue which will require you purchasing a Porsche-specific code reading tool ($200-2,000) that can tell you what the car thinks is the issue. Once you get those codes - post them here and some people may have some ideas/experience. I know a few members over on Planet-9.com do have experience with this. (Planet-9 is the sister forum to this one.)
Thanks Don. I’ll call the shop where I took it and ask him to give me the codes. I’ll then post them here
Doug
 

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Hi welcome to the forum.

A number of people have had this sort of issue - it's typically either the front air-springs (leaking O ring at the top) or the valve body. So your independent had the balls to charge you $500 to not fix the car? I'd be looking for a competent independent. Hopefully, there is one in your area. If you're of a mind of DIY - you first need to narrow down the issue which will require you purchasing a Porsche-specific code reading tool ($200-2,000) that can tell you what the car thinks is the issue. Once you get those codes - post them here and some people may have some ideas/experience. I know a few members over on Planet-9.com do have experience with this. (Planet-9 is the sister forum to this one.)
Hi welcome to the forum.

A number of people have had this sort of issue - it's typically either the front air-springs (leaking O ring at the top) or the valve body. So your independent had the balls to charge you $500 to not fix the car? I'd be looking for a competent independent. Hopefully, there is one in your area. If you're of a mind of DIY - you first need to narrow down the issue which will require you purchasing a Porsche-specific code reading tool ($200-2,000) that can tell you what the car thinks is the issue. Once you get those codes - post them here and some people may have some ideas/experience. I know a few members over on Planet-9.com do have experience with this. (Planet-9 is the sister forum to this one.)
I thought paying for a Porsche repair and then finding it not fixed was normal. It has happened to me numerous times. Independent repair shop or dealership does not matter. I have numerous issues that seem to be unfix-able.
 

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Hi there, sorry late to the discussion. Here is my history with this issue on my 2011 Cayenne Turbo. Since I’ve owned this Cayenne (going on 4 years now) every January when temps drop below 20 degrees (F) or so for 2 or more consecutive days I have this problem. First time it occurred the car dropped to what looked like the low setting on the left and terrain setting on the right, took it to Porsche dealer and they replaced the fuse that had blown and changed some parameters with voltage reading for the PASM. Now when it gets below around 25 (F) il‘ll get the yellow warning first and when temps drop and stay below 10 (F) the fuse blows and it pretty much stays in whatever setting level it was in before it blew. when this occurs I bring it into a heated garage and let the car thaw out, replace the fuse and it’s good again till next cold snap if left outside. Have to do this procedure maybe 2, 3 at the most, times per cold snap temps if car gets left outside for while. Don’t know it this will help you at all, but just know you are not alone with this issue. Side note, it’s very easy for shops to have you throw money at these cars and stealerships have a bad reputation but in this circumstance Porsche saved me thousands cause my independent was first looking at the compressor and a shock or 2. Thank goodness for forums like this with others sharing which saved me from going down the throwing money rabbit hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi there, sorry late to the discussion. Here is my history with this issue on my 2011 Cayenne Turbo. Since I’ve owned this Cayenne (going on 4 years now) every January when temps drop below 20 degrees (F) or so for 2 or more consecutive days I have this problem. First time it occurred the car dropped to what looked like the low setting on the left and terrain setting on the right, took it to Porsche dealer and they replaced the fuse that had blown and changed some parameters with voltage reading for the PASM. Now when it gets below around 25 (F) il‘ll get the yellow warning first and when temps drop and stay below 10 (F) the fuse blows and it pretty much stays in whatever setting level it was in before it blew. when this occurs I bring it into a heated garage and let the car thaw out, replace the fuse and it’s good again till next cold snap if left outside. Have to do this procedure maybe 2, 3 at the most, times per cold snap temps if car gets left outside for while. Don’t know it this will help you at all, but just know you are not alone with this issue. Side note, it’s very easy for shops to have you throw money at these cars and stealerships have a bad reputation but in this circumstance Porsche saved me thousands cause my independent was first looking at the compressor and a shock or 2. Thank goodness for forums like this with others sharing which saved me from going down the throwing money rabbit hole.
Thank you for the information. Very helpful
 

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I own a 2017 Cayenne GTS. I live in Mass so it’s often cold outside. A few times this winter when just starting out I’m getting a ‘Chassis System Failure” message. The screen shows a red shock absorber and it says to park the car safely. I’ve been fortunate enough that shutting off the vehicle, opening the door, and restarting has alleviated the issue. The vehicle is out of warranty so I took it to my independent garage. He scanned the codes and said he got multiple sensor failures. He said it impossible without spending many labor hours to chase down the actual issue. So $500 later nothing has changed. Wondering if other owners have experienced this fault and know of potential fixes.
A single ABS sensor needing to be replaced can give rise to multiple warning messages including chassis system failure. It starts with one or two warnings that go away if the car is switched on and off but they keep coming back and then they multiply.
 

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I just purchased an 11 CTT. This has happened a few times in the last 2 months but only when it is below 10°F. From what I've read it mostly occurs sub freezing temps and could be a small leak from the O ring contracting due to the cold. For me, the actual ride height does not change but all of my suspension settings are froze while the warning is on. Every time this has happened after turning the vehicle off for a little while and turning it back on the error is cleared with no issues. I don't live where I am currently full time and where I do live it rarely gets that cold ( South East USA) so unless it keeps occuring or other issues with it arrise after I am back home it will stay as is.
 

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Hi Guys I have the same issue. Bought 2011 Panamera 4s, car was fine and as soon as temperatures dropped during December it starts to have a chasis system failure red sign every time. I went to a reputable mechanic, where he identified that the compressor sensor was faulty and replaced it. Inside his garage in the warm temperature car was not showing signs of issues, took it from the mechanic and parked for 4 hrs outside in the cold weather ~14F and the issue is on again. Can I drive the car with this issue my question is and how to avoid this issue in the future. The car seems to hold its weight well and does not drop to the ground as the time pass by which makes me believe that shockers are ok. The ont thing I have noticed is when I turn the car all the way to the left, it has some cracking sound from the passenger wheel.
 

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I have a sporadic Chassis System Failure. Durametric reads a 220 code. Need help debugging what to do first. System works well and displays no codes if left overnight. Car rises and lowers well so no blown fuse. If I am driving and clear the fault, the car will drive flawlessly for like half hour and then the "Failure" appears again. On the durametric it is always the 220 code. See Pic. Any ideas where to start to fix?
Font Computer Rectangle Parallel Display device
 

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I have a sporadic Chassis System Failure. Durametric reads a 220 code. Need help debugging what to do first. System works well and displays no codes if left overnight. Car rises and lowers well so no blown fuse. If I am driving and clear the fault, the car will drive flawlessly for like half hour and then the "Failure" appears again. On the durametric it is always the 220 code. See Pic. Any ideas where to start to fix?
From looking at the description of the stored error, it appears to be electrical, and it may be an issue with the pressure regulating valve shorting for some reason. I'd be looking for the valve and then disconnecting and cleaning the connector going to it and reassembling. No cost to try that, and sometimes it is the simple thing.
 

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OK, I feel silly reporting this but with expert advice I raised the car to its highest position and I could hear a faint leak on one rear shock air bag. I am guessing the intermittent issue was the temp sensor on the compressor doing its job and shutting it down. I have ordered new rear bag/shock.
 
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